The Annapurna Circuit Day 3 - Jagat to Dharapani

Jagat | Tal | Dharapani

ROADWORKS | WATERFALLS | FOOTBALL | FLOWERS | LOTR | BIG LIZARD | GOATS | AGE

• 22nd October 2018
• 8.7 Miles
• 5 Hours 40 Mins Walking + 1 Hour for Lunch
• Starting Elevation 1350m
• Finish Elevation 1914m
• Average Temperature 28.2C (Low 25C, High 32C)
• Average Heart Rate 116bmp (Reaching 150+bpm some 6/7 times on ascents)

The sound of the alarm on my phone came as a relief from a sleepless night. Time to pack up and stock up on some warm breakfast carbs. Emerging from our guesthouse at the top of the village we stepped onto the already busy trail. Looking ahead the valley conveyed a different feeling from the day before. Richer greens clinging to the sides, steeper more awe-inspiring cliffs faces, and the winding trail enticing us onwards.

The morning’s trek followed the road down towards the river. At one point I had to squeeze past a working JCB improving the road and within a few moments stop to stare at one of the most beautiful waterfalls along the trail. The waterfall crashing down behind a little restaurant was a glimpse into the kind of idyllic settings that could be found along the trail but now contrasted with the progress of the road bringing more noise and more visitors.

Stopping to photograph the waterfall the constant gathering of people indicated we were now heading towards the busier sections of the trail. More trekkers, more guides and more giant packs being lugged into the mountains.

The trail weaved through a couple of smaller villages before turning to cross the river. On the short walk down to the bridge, a guide was chatting to us about the surroundings and went on to talk football, being a big Chelsea fan and once apparently having seen John Terry and David Beckham on the routes in Nepal. A lot of the porters passing us lived in the Kathmandu region but came out here for the trekking season to earn money. Some porters carrying the heavy loads seemed less seasoned than others, wearing ripped jeans and trainers that seemed out of place here in the mountains.

Once over the busy bridge, the trail was now separated from the road and felt more peaceful as we gradually climbed with rocks beneath our feet and surrounded by trees. There were a few steep climbs to overcome the terrain, often frustratingly followed by descent before climbing again. One particularly long climb was really hard going for me. At the top, and in need of the energy, I was delighted to see a little snack shop where I could pick up a snickers and take a breather before catching up with Ryan & Andrew.

There’s a dramatic, temporary shift in the landscape as you approach Tal. We stepped through an archway that marked the entrance to the Manang district and suddenly the narrow gorge opened up ahead. A wide bed of bright sediment and blue waters, almost completely flat and seemed to push back the giant cliff faces at either side. Ahead, perched on the side of the river looking almost like a beachside resort was the village of Tal basking in the midday sun.

Stopping for lunch in Tal, we watched as the steady stream of trekkers meandered past or jumped into a teahouse for a break. On the table next to us we started chatting with a trekker also from England who we would see every day from now on who was given the nickname ‘Harrogate’.

Tal is a boldly colourful village, all the buildings painted in vibrant colours and bright flowers emerging from the gardens. After a few moments of photographing some of the colours and flowers around the village it was time to move on.

Leaving Tal we passed what I think was the first set of prayer wheels (possibly missed others along the route) and started another gradual climb passing through the last few houses of the village. The afternoon trekking was about the same distance as we’d covered in the morning but it felt like half the effort. The beauty of the valley we were now walking into and the quietness of the trail made every step easier along the way.

We were now experiencing the traditional ‘Nepali flat’ as the path repeatedly climbed and descended to overcome the terrain while overall staying at around the same altitude. The high points were perfect vantage points to take in this beautiful stretch of the circuit. Ahead were triangular green peaks and the winding river. Behind us, the wider flat valley and the village of Tal sunk between giant steep cliffs.

To kill time as we walked, Andrew decided to tell (in some detail) the story of Lord of the Rings to Ryan who hadn’t read the books or seen the film. The story was briefly interrupted as we encountered a farmer herding goats and had to let them pass.

Reaching Dharapani we wandered through the town deciding to head for a guesthouse at the far end of the village, where rooms might be more plentiful. We ended up at the Green Park Guesthouse, a colourful affair with beautiful gardens. We ended up with two rooms this evening and due to a lack of sleep on previous nights I was granted permission to take a room on my own. After a quick warm shower, we headed down to the dining room to enjoy the usual chai tea and dal bhat for dinner. There was a small crowd around the single dining table, all happy to chat over dinner. Here we met more trekkers we’d see each day for the next week or so. The latest arrival to the guesthouse was a french solo trekker who had walked all the way from Besisahar to Dharapani completing our 2-day trek in a single day and planned to do much the same for the few days ahead. Admirable, but very different to my ideal trek making the most of the best parts of the trail without feeling the need to be anywhere.

The final few hours of the day were spent chatting about a range of subjects. A couple on part of their honeymoon whose guide had picked some of the wild marijuana along the trail decided to nip out for a smoke. While inside I was pleased to have my age guessed at 10 years younger than I am, and importantly 10 years younger than Ryan.

I managed much more sleep this evening but I did wake in the night for a trip along the balcony to find the toilet. On the way back to the room as my eyes adjusted to the dark the silhouettes of the giant cliffs around with charcoal silhouettes of trees reminded me where we were. I stopped on the balcony for a while and stared at the stars before the cold hit and I retreated to bed.