Ponta Do Pargo / Madeira
Ponta do Pargo sits on the westernmost tip of Madeira. Giant sea cliffs tentatively step into the Atlantic, constantly eroded back by the waves. There are no other villages from here to the Americas. Just the deep blue of the Atlantic and whatever weather gets conjured up out at sea. We had spent the night at the Casas de Levada agritourism complex in a lovely rustic villa surrounded by lush green palms and drinking wine with the local cats (literally) on the balcony.
Waking on our first morning in the village we were treated to one of the notorious morning mists, which blocked out everything beyond the grounds. We enjoyed a lazy morning waiting around for someone to come and check on our hire car, drinking beer and meeting the animals on the farm.
There were glimpses of sky in the early afternoon and the sun burnt away some of the mist. So after lunch we set off on a walk into the village of Ponta do Pargo itself and towards the dramatic lighthouse on the edge of the island.
Passing through the village we passed bars filled with locals playing cards and felt very much like we'd found the slow island life. Away from the tourists where only stray dogs joined us on the streets. Making our way through the white-washed houses we soon reached the sea. The wide open sea was hundreds of meters below our feet with just the lighthouse for company.
As the sunset faded away, the wind picked up and brought a new group of clouds over our heads. As we walked back into the town the atmosphere changed and we made it inside a restaurant only a few minutes before one of the heaviest downpours I've experienced. Torrential rain came and didn't stop well into the night. Our restaurant was at least a 30-minute walk from the accommodation and we were lucky that the owner of the restaurant offered to drive us back and avoid a drenching. A big thanks to the owner of Restaurante Dominó for helping us out and sharing his views on the then recent news of Brexit.